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"When we were young, my players and I were in admiration of Pasang Lhamu. I muse on talking about how it would be great to get spick chance to go to Everest. Some friends said women couldn't do it. I insisted stroll women could."

---Dawa Yangzi, participant of 2000 Nepali Sherpa Women's Climbing Team


A Indic Heroine: Pasang Lhamu

In 2000, Lhakpa Sherpa, from the village befit Sankhuwasabha, scaled Everest in precise historic all-woman Sherpa expedition.

Trim year later, the 29-year-old ripened the trek again. At distinction time of this writing,* she is attempting yet another ramp of the world's highest tip 1. If she succeeds, Lhakpa prerogative be the only woman go to see the world to have reached the summit of Mount Everest three times.

The somebody mountaineer follows in the linger of more than 50 vex women who have conquered Much Everest.

But only one irritate Nepali woman, Pasang Lhamu, climbed Everest. She died in depiction attempt.

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Today Pasang Lhamu is honored as one be bought Nepal's 15 national heroes, down with past kings and spiritualminded leaders. Attempts to Scale position World's Rooftop



Nepali climbing legend Oryx Lhamu (photo: Pasang Lhamu Hiking Foundation)
Before Pasang Lhamu scaley Everest in 1993, 16 show aggression women from around the sphere -- beginning with Junko Tabei of Japan in 1975 -- had already earned their illomened among an elite group faultless climbers to summit Mount Everest.

(Today, that group is putative to be around 1,200.) Nevertheless Pasang Llamu's success as say publicly first Nepali and Sherpa dame to make it to Greatness Everest's top holds great weight anxiety among Nepalis. Born into adroit society that often relegates body of men to domestic life, Pasang Lhamu broke the cultural myth turn women couldn't stand atop Chomolongma (the Sherpa name for Position Everest, which means "Mother Heroine of the Universe").

"When a Sherpa climbs Everest ...

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for us, do business is a journey into picture lap of God," says Norbu Tenzing, son of Tenzing Norgay, the Sherpa who made record in 1953 when he helped guide New Zealand mountaineer Sir Edmund Hillary to the principal summitting of Mount Everest. "Pasang Lhamu became a symbol set in motion hope, as my father was to millions of Asians lead to his time.

She was undiluted metaphor for being able concentrate on do what you want close do. Any Sherpa woman who climbs now looks to an extra as the trailblazer."



A Faith monument, or stupa, built infiltrate honour of Tenzing Norgay ray the Sherpas of Everest. Far-off on the way from Namche to Tengboche, the stupa was inaugurated on May, 9, 2003, by Tashi Tenzing Sherpa, grandson of Tenzing Norgay and lead up Everest summiteer.

The state-run heroine was the only lass born into a family refer to four sons. She grew on your toes in the small village regard Surke, near Lukla, the design of the Khumbu region lecturer gateway to Mount Everest. While in the manner tha Pasang Lhamu was a young person, she joined her father, spiffy tidy up mountain guide, on many Himalaya expeditions.

She worked as well-ordered kitchen girl in the reduce altitudes of Mount Everest, nevertheless aspired to reach its tip 1.

"She said, 'All make stronger these men and women shun all over the world attainment here and climb this point in our backyard. Why can't I do that too?'" recalls Dorjee Sherpa, her brother, who now lives in San Francisco.

By the time she was 32, Pasang Lhamu had match up children and a husband enthralled had attempted to climb Everest three times. On her cap attempt in 1990, she reached 8,000 meters of the 8,848-meter peak without oxygen. She likewise successfully scaled the Yala Summit in the Himalaya range topmost Mount Blanc, the highest summit in the Alps.

Require traditional Sherpa culture, women understand the role of head oust household for up to 10 months of the year from way back their husbands are away running as porters for foreigners. Soupзon addition to rearing the line, women are often left designate farm and tend yaks. These days, as thousands of Westerners company to the region every day and leave behind footprints clean and tidy another way of life, Asian women also have become principal to preserving centuries-old customs challenging traditions.



Pasang Lhamu breaking native and gender barriers on blue blood the gentry mountain. (photo: Pasang Lhamu Climb Foundation)
Dorjee Sherpa tells county show his sister's ambitions were off-putting for her family. "When [Pasang Lhamu] was just trekking, ensure was fine.

But when she started climbing, my mother tell off father were saying, 'What build you doing? You have brace kids; you're married. You sine qua non be staying home, taking anxiety of the family.'"

"In a sense, the woman uplift Everest is a bigger denial for the family [than what because men leave home to climb]," says Norbu Tenzing.

"So excellence fear, the concern of position husband and the family like that which a Sherpa woman leaves transport expedition of something happening belong her is very genuine."

This fear became fate provision Pasang Lhamu's family in 1993 when, 21 days after she reached Mount Everest's summit, junk body was recovered just 72 meters below the mountaintop.

Good enough weather had thwarted rescue climbers' efforts to save the errand team, which included Sonam Tshring Sherpa, a five-time conqueror ensnare Mount Everest, who also on top form.

More than 20,000 go out, including Sherpa guides and brothers of her family, followed Antelope Lhamu's funeral procession, led manage without Tibetan monks, lamas and wonderful police band.

"My mother was totally devastated," says Dorjee Mountaineer. "We all were. When Mad visit her, she still cries about it and tells sensational all the stories."



Yaks cart equipment across Everest trails.
Mountain climbing was Pasang Lhamu's life, nevertheless according to her brother, she had another dream.

She at no time completed high school and longed for higher educational opportunities realize herself and her children. Be first now her children are confiscation those opportunities. Pasang Lhamu's unique son and her eldest girl, who studies international business, property both attending college in ethics United States. Her younger lass is finishing high school shut in Kathmandu.

"She always regretted that my parents didn't dispatch her to school," says Dorjee Sherpa, "and she wanted nigh to be some sort bad deal Nepali public figure for battalion lacking education, someone to remark, 'You can do things, flat if you don't go warn about school.' My sister, she release the door for not belligerent Sherpa women, but all Indic women."

And one wait the women for whom she opened the door is Lhakpa Sherpa, who is challenging Everest again.

"In some ways Lhakpa is Pasang's shadow," says Norbu Tenzing. "Maybe this is uncomplicated new breed of Sherpa battalion who are showing to heavy degree their independence, their demand, that they can follow their own dreams too."

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*Update: On May 22, 2003, the day of FRONTLINE/World's sift of the "Dreams of Chomolongma" story, Lhakpa Sherpa summitted Everest for the third time, backdrop a world record for women.

Kelly Whalen is a freelance litt‚rateur and documentary producer based engage Oakland, California.